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September 2014
01 September 2014
Another month is upon us already and as the sun rose over us this morning Joanne managed to capture it and our campsite just perfectly.
Welcome to a new day and a new month.
Today is not only the start of a new month but the 80th Birthday of an Uncle, so just in case you are reading this Bob, HAPPY BIRTHDAY!
With all but one other camper having left we also hit the road this morning, passing through the Hamilton Channels and on towards the Middleton Hotel, the only remaining old Cobb & Co horse changing station along this route that is still in existence. The terrain along this stretch becoming more devoid of features the further towards Winton we go as the one lane bitumen known as the Kennedy Development Road continues through miles of country that is just dirt and dead tussocks of grass as they make their way off into the distance where small dark islands of land appear in the shimmering ocean of heat haze and mirage.
Middleton Hotel appears on the horizon and as we pass the front door is open for business as the place sits with scattered sheds and equipment on a featureless plain under a baking sun.
After some time the horizon began to fill with hills and the featureless plains gave way to trees and shrubs right up to the side of the road, we were in the Chiltern Hills and where the Cawnpore Lookout (see here on the 23 July 2013 for the lookout pictures) sits among a very impressive landscape. We didn't stop at the lookout but did enjoy the view from the opposite direction, but the scenery is such that we just had to turn around and get some more photo's such as this.
Just one of the views around here.
Coming out of the very scenic area we came to Cadell Creek where a homestead sits just off the road, but about half a kilometre from there we had spied a nice level gravel pit in a scenic spot and so after 171 km since our last camp and with around 120 km's to Winton we turned around, went in to explore and after finding it suitable took up residence for the rest of the day.
02 September 2014
Late afternoon and early evening were so nice in our camp yesterday and as we finished our meal and sat to relax the stars came out to play and the bugs decided to move in as well, so we took our leave and went inside. The lack of people and traffic making the silence here so loud.
The small range opposite our campsite.
Leaving our campsite this morning we left the hills and ranges we were driving through and entered the flat open grasslands that surround Winton and which make the headwind we were heading into seem just that more stronger. Arriving in town we caught up on things electronic, bought some bits and pieces of food, filled the fuel tank and without bothering to visit the free camp at the waterhole headed off into the headwind for a rest area just 40km out of Winton on the road to Longreach.
Glad to be out of the wind again we arrived at our camp for today and after a little scouting around eventually settled on the exact same spot we camped at two years ago after we got bogged at the Winton Waterhole camp.
The last time we were here it was wet and windy and so there was no exploration of the area, but this time it was just windy and so a walk up what we thought was a large mound of dirt near our camp was in order. On arrival at the top we were most surprised to see that it was full of water and similar to the mound springs that we saw on the Oodnadatta Track, except this one is larger and appears to be fed from a pipe from under the road and then sending water off the other side to a dam for the cattle and which the Kangaroos and Goats also enjoy. Despite the wind the sunset over the mound spring was very nice in both directions.
Looking East as the colour begins to come into the sky.
A magnificent yellow sunset.
03 September 2014
More campers came in as the afternoon went on and like us they were glad not to be fighting the wind which dies to almost nothing as the sun set and rose again with the sun this morning to ensure it didn't miss any early leavers. Flocks of Whistling Kites were soaring on the thermals and wind while a large flock of budgies flew around in formation making all sorts of shapes as they darted here and darted there, a few dropping into the water for a drink without breaking formation with the others but causing the flock to assume a new and different shape. We were the last to leave and although the driving wasn't too bad the fuel economy took a bit of a hit.
Passing more flat dead grass and plenty of dirt countryside more and more road kill was evident on the road as we made our way towards Longreach, passing the Darr River rest area before we knew it and based on what we saw decided, despite the muddy water in the river that it was a good move to keep going, besides now we were in amongst the bushes again which helped break the wind up.
Arriving at the Macsland Rest Area for a look we decided that 110km was enough for today and after a drive around the back in the bush and near the railway line we came back near the front and took up a great spot for the rest of the day. The wind slowed to a crawl which has made things even better.
04 September 2014
The plan for today was to get on the road and into Longreach early, find somewhere to park, shower, breakfast etc and then collect our mail from the Post Office, do some shopping and take in an attraction but...that was until we came to the turn off to a camp site called Lilly Pond just a few km out of town. Deciding at the last minute to go and have a look sealed a change of plan to our day that we didn't know about.
Heading out of town we came to the turn off the the Starlight lookout and as per the directions in wikicamps we turned off and started down a corrugated dirt road that you would not want to be on if it was wet. A short while later we turned off at the sign that said Lilly Pond and took the short dirt road in, arriving at the side of a waterhole on what is a watercourse from the Thompson River. Other campers were set up and we managed to get a nice spot with a nice view.
The view from our initial campsite.
Breakfast over there were photographs begging to be taken so a short walk up the dry part of the waterhole led to two blokes sitting next to a fire enjoying their morning cuppa while the wives did their hair in what can arguably be called the best camp spot available with plenty of sun. A short chat ensued and it turns out they were leaving shortly, and so, a hasty retreat was made to our motorhome to get ready to move in when they left. Joanne was chatting with another camper behind us when the two caravans began to move. Like a shot I was driving up to where they were pulling out of leaving Joanne still chatting and probably wondering what the heck I was up to.
"We stoked the fire up for you" were their words as the two couples left heading to Winton, and so I pulled in, leveled off and set up camp and Joanne arrived shortly after.
The view at our new camp.
Our Campsite.
The tree at the back is just magnificent when you are underneath and up close.
There are some magnificent views along this watercourse and lots and lots of birdlife around to check us out, emu and kangaroo down the waterhole grazing along the bank and the footprints of pigs through the mud.
The view from under the shady tree behind us.
Can you tell this is my favourite tree and view?
As the afternoon went by we were sat under the tree in the shade at the waters edge and began to notice more and more birdlife, some of which we managed to capture on camera.
This is Jacky Winter who is not afraid of humans and loves to catch bugs.
This is the White Plumed Honeyeater who likes to dart around conducting aerial acrobatics with his mates.
This guy (Horsefields Bronze Cuckoo) was also hanging around and his colours were really showing up in the sun.
Love the colours.
This Black Fronted Dotterel was a bit harder to get as he liked to stay down on the waters edge.
and there are the usual Pelican's, Ibis and Ducks floating and flying around as well. So with all of this to enjoy we have put off our trip into town to do the things we were going to do today because enjoying this place is more important, and in fact it looks like the world will have to wait because we might just be here for a few days.
08 September 2014
Having run out of wine, almost run out of water and food it was time to leave our very relaxing and enjoyable campsite. Like us all of the other campers bar one packed up and left this morning. We headed into Longreach and finally made it after our slight detour to the Lilly Pond, stopping at the showgrounds for the dump point and fresh water fill up before heading into town for shopping and a look around before we went out to the Stockman's Hall of Fame.
"The Ringer" at the entrance to the Hall of Fame.
Inside we discovered that spread over five areas and a couple of floors there is quite a lot to see. The displays are very informative and it is nice to see relics of the time when a man on a horseback was King of the land. Various films, artifacts and displays covering the discovery of Australia, Pioneers, Outback Properties, the Royal Flying Doctor Service, Stock Workers, Art Gallery and Souvenir shop make a lot to see and it can be quite confusing and overwhelming as to what is next to see because there is so much, but it's fun to try and figure it all out, and you would need a full day if you were to read everything that is there on the walls and in the display cabinets.
The magnificent roof towers over the various levels and displays.
So after an enjoyable couple of hours we left the Hall of Fame, filled up with fuel and wine before heading South out of town on the single lane bitumen road that runs through some of the very same countryside we had been reading about. Stopping at a gravel quarry about 35 km's South of town we parked up and settled in for the rest of the day.
09 September 2014
As the sun set last night the clouds and humidity started to depart and a nice cool breeze was blowing through the motorhome and it was so nice to fall asleep with it wafting over us and we awoke this morning to a very large yellow moon just above the horizon as the sun came up in the opposite direction.
We had a tailwind again and so we continued on through the flat open grasslands dropping the left wheels off the bitumen to pass vehicles going the other way before we came into the bush again as we entered the Barcoo Shire and the town of Stonehenge. Turning off the highway and taking the 3 km into town we found a town that despite the sign that says it is the Home of Bronco Branding, appears to be on its last legs. There is a nice new community centre there with a hotel that looks more like a private home, and a general store that is not much better and a small number of tired looking homes.
Back out onto the highway again we climbed the hill and turned off into the Swanvale Jump Up Lookout which gave us views over the dry hot plains below and the last of the mobile phone reception for some time while we enjoyed morning tea. Of course being up on a hill means you catch the wind and if it were not for that we might have stayed. Driving on we stopped for a look at a hole in the ground that is supposed to be a Native Well before arriving in the town of Jundah where we enjoyed a nice long free hot shower in the new traveler toilet and shower block. From there it was a short 1km drive out to the Thompson River to find a campsite.
Arriving at the bridge over the river we took the track to the left and went a short way down before figuring that the other campers on the right hand side of the bridge probably were in the best spot, so back over the road we went, passing the half a dozen campers there and taking up a nice spot on the high bank and opposite a small tree covered island.
This is the view up the river from our campsite.
The weather today has been a hot humid 35 degrees and so it was nice to climb into bed with a cool breeze blowing over us as the full moon lit the place up enough to read a book by.
10 September 2014
Last night was one of those nights where the covers don't get pulled up over you until the early hours of the morning and on top of that we were awake early for some reason, spotting the moon's reflection in the water and just having to get up to try and capture it in a photo.
Moon River.
Moisture in the air made it quite cool this morning and as the sun rose it was covered in a mist defusing the light. The wind is up again and so we are having a lazy day off, again.
11 September 2014
Somewhat reluctantly we left our camp this morning and headed into town for a nice long hot shower at the travelers showers before topping up with water and heading out of town passing through more open grassland before coming back into the trees and bush not long before we arrived in Windorah.
Just out of town there is a solar array made up of five mirrored dishes each supplying 26kw of power, enough to power the town during the day. Each dish is 13.7m across and tops off at 14.5m above the ground. Started in 2009 the solar array generates 360,000 kilo watt hours and replaces the need for over 100,00 litres of diesel which would have been consumed by the towns generators. It's amazing to think that they can build something like this but don't have mobile phone coverage out here.
The Solar array at work.
Entering town we found Windorah to be a nice looking little town, fairly neat and with a couple of shops, fuel stops, caravan park, pub and around 100 residents. We didn't stop in town because we wanted to get out to the sand dunes which according to the brochure and the photos it has are supposedly the deepest red you have ever seen. About 10km out of town on the road to Birdsville we found the first of the sand dunes and after parking up walked about half a kilometre to the sand itself. The dunes do look quite red from the road but with the sun almost overhead they were not too colourful or striking up close at this time of the day, so after a few photos we drove on some more until we found one near the road and with a gravel pit at the base. Some exploratory photos later we decided to camp in the gravel pit and see what sunset and sunrise over the dunes would bring.
The harsh sun over the dune.
Sunset and softer light reveal the true colours of the dune.
12 September 2014
"Are you getting up for photo's?" Joanne uttered to me and a quick glance out the window told me we were late for what I had wanted to shoot but... there was a chance that we could salvage something. Dressing rather quickly I was thankful that the camera gear was ready to go and I took a quick trip to the top of the dune, legs, lungs and heart protesting at the burst of energy required only a few minutes after they were resting in bed, but the results were worth it.
The moon over the dune as the early light catches the ripples.
Early morning light over the crisply wind blown dune.
Lines in the sand.
And as the sun took over and the soft light faded it was time for breakfast and to head back into town for a look around, fuel and to head out to the iconic Cooper Creek.
After a drive around the streets (all six of them) and filling up with fuel ($1.75 p/l) we stopped at the tourist information centre where Joanne went inside and I managed to connect to the Internet on the Wi-fi ($4.95 for 100mb) to catch up on emails and to upload the latest on the website as there is no mobile phone service out here.
Remembering the photos in the brochure that spurred our photo shoot Joanne asked the lady in the tourist information center about them. "They are on our property about 8km's out of town. Didn't you see the sign on the fence?" So if we had asked there first before going out to find them for ourselves the photos might have been different, though she did say that lots of people have walked over them so maybe we were better off going where we did.
Leaving town to check the Cooper for a campsite we passed the Solar Array again and this time they were aligned such that there were great reflections on them though we were only able to catch 4 on the photo.
Sun bursts on the dishes.
About 11km's after we left town we arrived at the Cooper Creek, named by Charles Sturt after a Judge in South Australia in 1845 and as a creek and not a river because there was no flow. Formed 35km below where the Thompson and Barcoo Rivers join, the reason for the lack of flow is because even now the creek is a series of channels made up of long waterhole's that only become one during flood. Crossing the singe lane bridge to where some campers had set up on the flat spots near the toilets we took stock of our options which were not very appealing. We parked up and went for a walk and a look at the water during which we spied what looked like a camp spot on the Windorah bank side, so we got back to AJ, drove back over the bridge and then started carefully along the black soil dirt track along the bank. Finding more and more campers the further we drove we eventually settled on a spot at the end of the track and not far from a pump station (and a gravel not black dirt road) and so with a reasonable gravel escape route out in case of rain (not likely) we put the awning and the ground mat out, set the satellite TV and portable panels up and settled in for the weekend.
Settled in for the weekend.
The view from our camp (upstream).
Looking upstream from the waters edge towards the pump.
Interesting symmetry in the bark of a nearby tree.
Later in the day we managed to get a few photos of the Whistling Kite that is nesting in a nearby tree. Initially it flew off but then came back when it looked like the coast we clear and although it didn't seem to pleased with my presence it remained on the nest but watched my every move.
Yep, watching me like a...whistling kite.
15 September 2014
We left our camp this morning and after a quick trip back into Windorah for a water top up we crossed the Coopers Creek again and continued on our way. The countryside was pretty much the same dead dry grass and short trees and shrubs until we were near the Wild Dog Fence where some red sand dunes appeared in the middle of nowhere, one with a small cemetery on the top. The dog fence is 5,400 km long and goes from Penong in SA to Jandowae on the Darling Downs in Qld.
Leaving the fence we were still on single lane bitumen road with the occasional wide part which the signs indicated were an "Overtaking Area". The only other wide part being the Emergency Airstrip.
Arriving at Thylungra we stopped for a look at the rest area which sits alongside the Thylungra Waterhole and adjacent to the Thylungra Station which was started by Patsy Durack during his days or forming his cattle empire around Quilpie before it went bust. Durack then moved on to the Kimberley in WA to really make his fortune. We almost camped at the waterhole but decided to continue on to Quilpie and a camp either on the river there or at a nearby Lake.
About 30km's out of town both of our phones went berserk with messages telling us various people had called or sent text messages since we last had a phone signal which was six days ago, and so one of our tasks once we arrived in town was to sort all of that out before we took a quick look at town and headed out to the riverside camping area for a look. Finding nothing we liked amongst the long dead grass we crossed the causeway where the river made our tyres wet and made our way out along the 4.5 km dirt road to Lake Houdraman,where one look at the area told us we were stopping here today and maybe a bit longer.
With a nice campsite selected we set up and spent the rest of the afternoon with a camera in hand exploring the side of the lake and talking to the eight other campers before we sat under the awning watching the pelicans, spoonbills, budgies and a heap of other birds finding their evening meal before some weather closed in and the lightening show commenced on the horizon.
This is the view to the left of our campsite.
A little further up from our camp.
Nice shady trees along the bank make for a pleasant walk.
Looking back away from the Lake at last nights sunset.
We sat outside enjoying our meal after the very nice sunset last night and then the wind picked up, and then some drops fell from the sky and a look towards town showed cloud had formed and then the lightening show started. All the action was far enough away from us to just appear on the horizon through the trees and so we spent about an hour trying to capture a decent photo of it, mostly to no avail because of the distance. The good thing about it all was the wind blew all the heat away and after battening down the hatches just in case we fell into bed with the wind still blowing reasonably well.
16 September 2014
About 1.40am this morning my subconscious photographer woke me for some reason and a look out of the window revealed that it was. I just had to get up to try and capture the scene I was looking at.
The moon over the Lake at 1.40am.
There is nothing better to make your photography workflow skills work quickly than the need to get out of the cold and to stop the bugs feasting on you (especially if you are just in short pj's and a pair of thongs) so after about 15 minutes it was time to head back to bed again.
Waking around 7.30am it was time to get the day underway and the rest of the day was taken up with enjoying the view, sorting photo's out and watching the new arrivals come in and set up.
17 September 2014
We awoke this morning to another beautiful day and after getting the day underway put the wok up to watch some TV and then watched new arrivals come in and select their spot as the wind began to increase and the dust to start blowing around. The day really was a lazy day, the most notable part being our ability to finally capture the White-Browed Woodswallow on the camera. This one and his mate were chasing bugs around the waters edge yesterday but decided to become camera shy when it came out, but today this one was floating around on the breeze catching bugs and then decided to come back to where he was yesterday and have another go and we were delighted that he did.
The White-Browed Woodswallow
18 September 2014
Another day at the Lake and Joanne was up early to catch some early morning photographs from up where the Lake thins out, and she got some beauties, including this one.
Golden Morning Light.
So with that sort of start to the day the rest was made up with getting some washing done, watching TV and continuing to enjoy the scenery around us.
19 September 2014
We reluctantly left our waterside camp this morning to keep to our plan for getting to Talwood for a start on the wheat season on 6th October and so took the short 4.5km back into Quilpie where we did the usual routine of dump point and water top up. All of that done we were then able to enjoy a nice long hot shower in the travellers shower block before breakfast. Then it was time for food shopping and fuel ($1.779 p/l) before we headed out of town, inspecting both the public opal fossicking area and baldy top lookout.
Heading South we were on the Development Road which was again a single lane bitumen road and requiring us to stop on the side when the triple trailered road trains came the opposite way. The results of recent rains were still evident in the greenery as we drove as but the road kill was quite prolific and almost all Emu not skippy. Arriving at Toompine which describes itself as a pub without a town. Pulling in we could see they were setting up for some sort of cattle event and there were four caravans all cheek to jowl on the free power points, the occupants sitting in the shade of the building because their vans were so close to each other. A quick check of the place told us we were moving on and so we drove just out of town and had lunch in a gravel pit before continuing on.
Taking the turn off heading to Yowah we found the road was even narrower and the fences right up to the grids mean't there was little room for error. Eventually arriving in Yowah reportedly Australia's oldest working Opal Fields we found a town that looks a tad tired but interesting nevertheless. We took a quick drive through the diggings and fossicking area before finding a spot in the town free camp.
20 September 2014
Blue Hour photography last night was a new training ground and then the stars and milky way came out to play again, clearly visible because the town does not have street lights and therefore little ambient light to disrupt the view of the stars.
We awoke this morning and and after deciding against fossicking moved on towards Eulo, detouring on the way to check a campsite on wikicamps. It would have been a good one but with rain forecast a red dirt road and then a black dirt road in including two small creek crossings to sit on the bank of the river mean't we decided not to chance our luck and so went back to the safety and surety of the tar.
Coming into town we stopped and set up camp on the side of the creek just 1.5km before Eulo before deciding to pack up and move on because of an unexplainable uneasiness. Passing through the small hamlet of Eulo which begs some more exploration some other time before stopping to camp at the Padabilla Bore where we hoped the supposed prolific birdlife would compensate for the disappointment of leaving the creek. Unfortunately not only was the birdlife disappointing so was the unexplained uneasiness not leaving, though it did ease a little.
21 September 2014
Waking early to see if the birdlife sightings would improve we moved further back into the bush to see if that would provide more sightings but no, only a bright blue Fairy Wren showed up. Bacon and eggs for breakfast over as the sun attempted to clear the cloud from the sky we made our way towards Cunnamulla passing two large mobs of Emu along the way.
Arriving in town we took a short trip around the town to see the sights and to stop and get a shot of the Cunnamulla Fella as sung about by Stan Coster and Slim Dusty. Being Queensland and Sunday the shops were closed and so we took the short drive down to the weir where we spent a few hours relaxing and watching out for birds before watching our favourite show Landline.
The Cunnamulla Fella
Cunnamulla it is alleged doesn't support freedom camping and the No Camping signs near where we were parked were testament to that so we left the river and made our way to a rest area just out of town on the highway and parked up, watching more TV as the clouds rolled in, darkened and looked like they were going to give us a pasting. The wind was gathering strength and blowing dust all down the highway so we were glad to be on bitumen and with a toilet and water tap nearby we were set.
Wandering across the road to the service station we enjoyed a really nice fish and chips for tea as another motorhome came in and parked up not far behind us. The storm that was brewing went around us and we only got a little wet before it was time to grab some sleep.
22 September 2014
Waking to a day that looked like it was starting the same as yesterday finished we took our time with breakfast and showers and then after a little food top up and a tank of fuel we were on our way into the weather. Glad to be out of the open grasslands were the bush and tree line helped with the wind a little and cattle, sheep, goats and Emu were all spotted (and dodged) along the way as the rain made the dust on AJ look worse and the windscreen wipers got a bit of a work out for a bit.
Arriving in the little town of Bollon we made our way to the free camp that the town has set up along the river. Free hot showers, a concrete walking track into town, water taps (with drinkable bore water) and fire pits all there to be enjoyed as were the magnificent gum trees that line the path. It's just a pity the weather was not as nice.
River Gums at Bollon
Joanne took a short walk into town and after a look around bought lunch and brought it back for us to enjoy and as the wind rustles the trees more campers are coming in so is the weather.
The clouds came in but only a few drops fell.
The Wallan Creek next to us is in need of a drink.
23 September 2014
About a dozen of us enjoyed a peaceful (and dry) night in Bollon and we left for St George just 110km's away. The wind was up again and between the terribly uneven road and the wind driving was like being at sea. Arriving in town we parked up for some shopping and checked where we are taking AJ for a service tomorrow before booking into the caravan park for the rest of the day.
26 September 2014
Finishing our tasks in St George and after a night of rain on the roof we made our way to Talwood where we have caught up with the manager at the wheat silo and have taken up our spot on the spare block next to the shop to wait until the harvest starts. So for the moment touring is on hold and work just around the corner.
Exactly the same as last year.
Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.
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